Bishop Continued.

Our 4th day in Bishop was a rest day. The 5 of us drove up to try to find the hot springs to relax in but all we found was one of them that was already occupied. Did get to see some nice views however:



The next day we were back out to the Buttermilks. We started the day working on Get Carter - a classic V7. Pretty cool looking problem with a very hard start involving either a huge drop knee or a wide spread and powerful move. I worked out the top moves pretty easily but got completely shut down on the bottom. Eric did pretty well on it and was able to do all the moves and could probably do it all with more work.


After that we headed back to the main Buttermilks area and I ended up doing a really fun V5 called Go Granny Go



The following day we started by getting on the Ironman Traverse (V4). Super classic line that I tried a few times a year ago and didn't have the endurance to do. I was able to do it this year fortunately (barely though), in addition to Eric and Kris who also did it.


After this we briefly tried the Leary/Bard Arete (V5) but none of us had the strength/skin at this point to do it:

And after that we hiked up to the Checkerboard V7/8 to check it out. We tried a few moves but it's way too crimpy for me at this point in the trip. A truly inspiring line though -- perhaps the best I've ever seen. Something I'd love to do on a future trip.


Today I didn't do much climbing -- felt pretty much worthless. Started the day trying Pain Grain (V5) - but it lived up to its name and I gave up after 2 tries.

I also briefly tried the Cave Problem but gave up on that too after ripping off the holds and tearing yet another hole in my fingers. Kris got it though. We also went over to work the crimpy Yayoi (V7) but I decided not to try it to protect my fingers. Kris got this one as well after about 30 minutes of work. I finished the day by doing Green Wall Essential (V2) along with Eric. Nice line on a beautiful face.

Tomorrow we'll climb for a few hours and then head back to Vegas and on home. I'll try to put a slideshow up when I get home. My fingers are completely shredded (worst they've ever been - holes in most my fingers it seems) but I'm really psyched to get them healed and pulling again in Hueco in 2 weeks!

High Plains Drifter

Edited: Much higher quality video:

Bishop

I've been in Bishop for the past 3 days and am absolutely loving it. Eric Johnson and I rolled into town on Christmas Eve at about 3 in the afternoon and drove straight out to the Happies to warm up for the trip. We figured there wasn't enough daylight to make the Buttermilks worth it. We started by doing a V4 called Sucker Punch and a V3 called Carrot Top that were both pretty fun and nice warm-ups.
Eric on Sucker Punch:


We then headed over to Serengetti (V5) - a classic problem that shut me down and ripped a hole in my finger last year. I did it this time in 2 tries and Eric quickly repeated it as well.
Eric on Serengetti:


We ended the day by working on The Hulk (V6) -- which felt doable if we go back to the Happies -- and by doing a high and committing V1 called Heavenly Path.

On the following day - Christmas - we met up with Kris and Lynn Johnson and Dillon Doyle and headed up to the Buttermilks. The Buttermilks are one of the most scenic bouldering spots in the country if not the world. We warmed up on the Sunshine Boulder and then quickly went up to work on Saigon - a classic V6 I worked on but couldn't do last January. This time was a different story and I did it on my 3rd try. A truly spectacular line. Here's me sticking the crux move:


Kris worked on Saigon Direct (V9) for awhile and he really seems close. It's pretty tall and committing and he was taking some big falls down to the pads:


After this we worked on High Plains Drifter (V7) for a little while and Lynn came very close on Pope's Prow and then headed down and Kris and myself worked on Soul Slinger (V9) and Eric and Lynn worked on the Cave Problem (V6) before calling it a day.
Eric on High Plains Drifter:


Me trying Soul Slinger:


Today we headed back up with High Plains Drifter as my primary goal. It felt close enough yesterday that I was completely certain I was going to do the problem today -- never really had that feeling before -- at least not that strong. It took about 5 or 6 tries and a key bit of beta from Kris (who sent it earlier this week) and I did it -- so psyched! I got video of it but will have to wait until I have faster internet before uploading it. Eric is super close on it too and I have no doubt that after a rest day he'll do it. It was very cold up there today and everyone was pretty much ready to go by this point but I made them come spot me on Soul Slinger for a few goes. Unfortunately I tore a hold in my finger on my 2nd go but it did feel a bit better than yesterday. The hole isn't bad so after a rest day tomorrow it should be fine..

5 Days Away

Rest.

I've been climbing with a tweaked finger tendon for the last 6 weeks or so and I've come to realize it's gotten bad enough that I have to take a break.. The plan is 3 weeks of no climbing and then the following 3 weeks of slowly escalating to the Hueco trip. Hueco is 6 weeks away and counting and even though taking a few weeks off now will be frustrating -- it will be far more frustrating to be in Hueco not at 100%. It's just as well I take a break now -- the MN season looks to be officially over -- we're getting 6+ inches of snow dumped on us right now and more to come tonight and tomorrow. So all I'll be missing is plastic climbing. I will be focusing on core workouts in the meantime and antagonist muscle training.

Here's some random pictures to brighten up the post:
Me about to fall off Kahuna Roof at Carter Lake -- over and over again:


Chad Johnson on The Angler/The Rail in Joe's Valley:


Josh on Boogie Nights in Triassic:


Eric Johnson sending Serengetti in Bishop:


Jim Merli on Dead Leaves and the Dirty Ground at Swede's Forest (there's the same Tetanus Kettle in the background from my previous post, 2 years earlier):


Me trying Germ Free Adolescence in Eldorado Canyon 2 years ago:

Swede's Forest - 11/24/2007

It was pretty nice weather for a late November MN day so a few of us headed out to Swede's Forest. The group consisted of myself, Nic, Dillon, Chris Craft, Chris Hirsch, and Joe. Turned out to be a really nice bouldering day. Swede's doesn't have much and many of the problems are short, but they are fun. I hadn't been there for two years so it was good to see it again.

I did Swedish Lightning - a really fun V3 and Swedish Slopers to start the day. I then moved on to work on Dead Leaves and the Dirty Ground -- a really great V7 that has got a great jump move to a sloper for a crux. I was able to do all the moves but just couldn't complete the jump and hold the sloper from the sit so the problem will have to go another day.

Nic got the 2nd ascent of Choppin Broccoli. Chris Hirsch got a nice (for Swede's at least) FA. He climbed from the start of Choppin' Broccoli and instead of finishing on the slab finished up the arete. Nic followed with the second ascent shortly after.

Chris Craft came really close on Tetanus Kettle as well -- here he is posing in front of it with the actual Tetanus Kettle:


Video:
1) Me on Swedish Lightning
2) Chris Craft on Swedish Meatballs
3) Nic Oklobzija on Swedish Slopers
4) Nic on Choppin' Broccoli
5) Chris Hirsch on Choppin Broccoli -> Relationship of Command (top half)
6) Me then Nic on Dead Leaves and the Dirty Ground

Trip Down South Wrap-up

Finally got out of Atlanta on Thursday and drove up to Rocktown... Where to begin telling you about Rocktown......uhh..at the same place it ends...

Nothing more to say about that :(

So we drove all the way back down to HP 40 and made it there by 2pm or so. Nic had some serious unfinished business and I knew I could find some stuff to work on. Nic ended up having a pretty great day. He did his trip goal Slider (V9), and then added Ghetto Superstar (V9), The low start to Step Child (V9 i think), and Mulletino (V7). I worked on Mulletino and did the tall top-out but couldn't do the roof moves at the start as my right middle finger pulley was really acting up after 4 straight days of pulling on plastic in Atlanta. It hurt bad enough that I decided that was it for climbing for me on the trip.

I did pose for pictures on Hammerhead (V5) which I had done last week:


Since I needed quite a bit of rest for my finger and Nic's fingers were worn down enough that he felt he needed a few days rest, we decided to call it a trip and head home. So we packed everything up at 5:30pm last night in Horsepens and hit the road and rolled home at 11:30am today.. Totally exhausted now but trying to stay up at least most the day so my sleep schedule doesn't get completely thrown off..

Atlanta Lifetime Routesetting

Nic and myself have been in Atlanta since Saturday night working on a routesetting job for a brand new Lifetime Fitness... First time I've done this (at this scale -- I've set a few routes here and there before). Quite an immense job this has turned out to be. We arrived to find 18 70 pound boxes of holds - over 1200 pounds of holds and 300 pounds of bolts that we had to carry in from outside a box at a time and then open and prepare for setting:


We had 44 routes to set from 5.5 to 5.11 so it was over 3 days of hanging from my harness developing cuts and abrasions on my legs and trying to haul myself up ropes with a gri-gri and climbing through 30 feet of scaffolding behind the wall when setting the ropes. Pulled up on so many holds that I completely trashed a brand new pair of pretty decent work gloves.


I think we're finally done now -- just to have to go back tomorrow morning for the final check-off and help with some clean-up. I lost my phone there and am hoping to find it tomorrow. Should hopefully be climbing in Rocktown by tomorrow afternoon.

HP40 - Short Long Video

Didn't take much video but I did get Nic's send of Short Long V8:

Horsepens 40

I have been in Horsepens 40 for the last few days. Nic and myself drove down all day last Tuesday (Oct 30) and arrived early Wednesday morning at about 5:30 AM. We got checked in and found a campsite and went to sleep on our crashpads under the stars. We got up about 2 hours later when the sun came up and hit the boulders that are literally right there next to the campsite.. Impossible to sleep in with that.

We started by heading over and checking out Slider - a classic V9. I tried it once but decided it wasn't for me at this time. Nic set to work figuring out the moves on that and I moved on to a fun V4 right next to it called Cuts Like a Knife. It is a couple of really crimpy moves up to a classic HP40 slopey top-out that was a good intro to the area for me.
Slider:



After this we headed over to look at some other classic problems Ghetto Superstar and Thief but neither of us tried these. We did both end up doing a fun V5 called Popeye. It felt really hard for me until I figured the moves out and it clicked into place.

Finally, we checked out the Millipede area and did Bug Boy - a really slopey V3 that felt really hard. We both tried Millipede V5 as well but just couldn't do it.
Here's Nic on Bug Boy, Millipede is on the far right:



The next day (Thursday 11/1) I tried a V6 called Boomslinger that's on the Slider boulder but couldn't do it and then later tried and did a really cool V5 called Hammerhead. It climbs up a roof arete to the hardest topout I've ever done. Felt like I had to use every ounce of energy I had to top it out.
Hammerhead:



Friday was a pretty light day. All I tried was Redneck - a hard V6 - a few times which Nic ended up doing and hanging out the rest of the day. Nic also did a pretty cool looking V8 called Short Long that climbs out of a steep roof.
Short Long:



This morning I headed back out to Redneck and ended up doing it. Pretty fun problem that climbs up an overhang using a lot of crimps and a key heel-toe cam. Pretty fun climb that is unlike most things at HP40. Nic went back to Slider to try to finish that one early this morning as well but unfortunately fell off the last moves several times.
Me on the 1st move of Redneck:



The rest of today we wandered around as spectators watching the Triple Crown Bouldering Competition and it was pretty inspiring to see a lot of really strong climbers who'd come into town to compete.

I'm quite impressed with Horsepens. A high concentration of great sandstone boulders. It's a different style of climbing than I've ever done before and quite difficult to get used to.

We're in Atlanta now and will be heading to a Lifetime fitness tomorrow to set routes and then after that will head on to Rocktown...

Cabin Boulder Weekend 10/26 - 10/28 2007

Headed up with Nic and Eric J. on Friday morning to Eric's cabin in northern MN. On Friday afternoon, we stopped to check out the Myrtle Lake boulder that Eric, Chad and Nic had briefly looked at early this spring and seen potential. We also checked out a second, smaller boulder on the hike in to the larger, Myrtle Lake boulder:

The smaller boulder was kind of cool and would have a couple of crimpy face climbs on it. We quickly left it for the bigger boulder. This was the first time I'd seen this boulder and I was quite impressed. It's not quite as big as the boulder at Eric's cabin -- but it's close. Probably 10 or so decent lines on it and a few gems.

The best line on the boulder starts on an arete and climbs up this overhanging, featured prow and tops out on some bad slopers. Nic went to work on it and after awhile sent the thing and called it V8 or V9 "Significant Other":

He also added a variation that exits left onto a slab and called it "Insignificant Other". And the video:


Later that night Scott Ferris and Kris and Lynn Johnson joined us and the next day we went out to the Big Swirly Cabin Boulder. A great session as usual. Fun to see the jaw-dropped looks on Scott, Kris and Lynn's faces as this was their first time seeing this boulder. 5 new lines ended up going up to bring the total to 15 I believe. The 2 super-projects remain. Scott managed to climb 11 of them on Saturday including 2 new lines. "Squeaky Clean" is a highball, scary arete that starts on the back side of the boulder and finishes up inside the slot and "Mr. Clean" climbs the other, shorter arete on the back side. The other new lines were "Sneaky Pete" - a short crimpy problem on the backside to the left of Pendulum, "Coffee and Cocaine" - the highball slab to the left of The Sycamore that was named because Nic said it makes you jittery from the scare factor, and "Carpe Diem" - a 3rd line to go up in the slot. Kris did Dragon Fruit V7 and made it look easy.
Lynn sent 10th Plague (check out http://minnesotaskin.blogspot.com/ for her report of the weekend along w/ videos of her on The 10th Plague and The Sycamore):




Here's a video of a few of the days sends:
1) Kris does Dragon Fruit V7
2) Nic does Coffee and Cocaine V4
3) Nic trying the crux of the "Understudy" project

Climbing Trip!

I'm heading up north tomorrow to the cabin/Big Swirly boulder for the weekend (goal: the super crimpy problem Dragon Fruit) and once I get back am leaving the next day to head down south with Nic to hit up Southern Illinois, Rocktown GA, and Horsepens 40 for 2 weeks! I'm sure I'll keep the blog posted as I find coffee shops with internet..

Sawmill Creek Dome - 10/20/2007

I drove up to Sawmill again yesterday. Got there and the rain stayed away and enjoyed a beautiful fall day. After warming up I first tried Lukewarm Persistence V7 and after a few tries did it.. The problem starts sitting with two slots for your hands and a micro-edge left foot. You pop a left hand up to a sloper with a divot in it and do a big move up again to a good hold. Then match, get a heel hook and do a pretty hard top out on slopers up and left. After this I still had lots of energy so I then did Jaws V7 in a few tries as well. Jaws starts the same but after the match you traverse a few moves right along a seam and then do a scary top-out on a bulge with small crimps and slopers. I really like both of these problems - a lot of fun to climb. This would technically be me best day ever -- never done 2 V7's in a day.

After this Nic went to try the project on the arete to the right of Counselor Moon. This is a pretty scary line as there's a big chasm beneath it that you would fall into. But fortunately he didn't fall from the scary points but sent the project and called it Pitfall - probably a V7. You can see me being really nervous in the video and spotting quite close and trying not to fall into the chasm at the same time myself..

Here's the video of the day -- it's me doing Lukewarm, then Nic doing Jaws and then Pitfall complete with overdramatic music:

M7Bouldering.com

I've been working lately on a website with Nic Oklobzija called M7Bouldering.com. We have launched it today. It's a guide and media viewer for Minnesota bouldering as well as a place for Nic's blog. Right now we've got two Taylors Falls areas on there - The Cave Area below the road on the WI side and The Boneyards on the MN side. Each area has a video as well.

We're going to release new areas every week until the site becomes the place to find what you need for MN bouldering destinations. Next week will be an area of Sawmill Creek Dome and in the months to come you can expect other areas as well.

Check it out!
http://www.m7bouldering.com

Let us know how you like it and if you find it useful..

Sawmill Creek Dome season continues..

The alarm went off this morning at 6:30 am and I shortly thereafter met up with Nic O., Jim M., Scott F. and made the drive up to Sawmill. We finally made it to the boulders by 1:00 pm or so. The hike was particularly interesting today as we all took turns hauling a ladder up to help with some filming attempts:


After warming up and doing some spotting for Scott who re-did Counselor Moon for the filming I started trying my project Sticky Icky. I was really hoping to do it in 1 or 2 tries as I felt really close last time. I did get to my previous high point on my first go but screwed my feet up and fell off. After blowing the starting moves for the next 4 or 5 tries I finally did it - felt great doing another MN project of mine done this season.
I didn't get any pictures or video of this problem today but here's a shot of the problem from 2005:



After this, I joined Nic and Scott who were working on The Onion. Nic ended up doing it. I feel like I'm pretty close on it but really have to figure out my body positioning on one move that is currently shutting me down.

After The Onion I went over to another line I've tried a few times before but never done - My Stereo. This problem is basically a one-move wonder dyno off a big rail to a sloper then a few more moderate moves to the end. Took me about 8 tries today to figure out how to do the jump move but finally stuck the 2nd hold and topped out the problem.

All in all a beautiful day at Sawmill and I hope to get back up a few more times this season. I plan on working Lukewarm Persistence and Jaws Sit Start next as well as Counselor Moon and Payback as well. Sorry for slacking on pictures lately -- spent too much time climbing today I guess :). Here's one of Nic, however, working what I believe is a project on the arete to the right on Counselor Moon:

TF Update

Scott Ferris just did Oxygen Cocktail V9 today at Taylors Falls. Nice job Scott!

The temps have finally gotten good after the terrible heat last week.. So get out there and take advantage..

Projecting Cave Traverse...

I've officially begun projecting Cave Traverse. Headed up there by myself on Wednesday afternoon to start learning the moves and again today with Eric J. to continue working it. On Wednesday I was able to do every move -- in about 8 pieces of course but it was a good start. Went back today and was one dab (more like a step off and back on) from 2 piecing it -- and was able to finish it from the start of Midget Sit Start. I think I've got my beta for the first few moves figured out now -- toe hooks -- just have to do it now.

Also, while I'm on the subject -- big props to Chris Johnson for sending Cave Traverse last weekend... Nice job man!

Sorry for no pictures -- you can see Kelly do this problem 2 posts back, though.

Sawmill Creek Dome season begins...

I drove up on Friday night with Nic and Eric to Chad's place in Duluth and the four of us headed up to Sawmill on Saturday morning where Jim and Scott joined us for a great bouldering day. The temps aren't perfect yet but they are getting better and the air is getting drier as well. The colors were pretty much at their peak as well -- very pretty. It looks like it will be a good season for a lot of people up there.


We started the day by warming up on the standard warm-up problem - which I learned is called the Luscious Lips Traverse:

and following that with some problems I don't know the names of that are around the corner from Jaws and back behind Juggernaut. There was a nice arete problem and a little roof on the opposite side of the same boulder.

After warming up, I started working Sticky Icky (V7) with Eric. Eric came really close to doing this problem this spring and was ready to do it -- and sure enough he beared down and sent the problem after 3 or 4 tries. I gave it about 10 tries as well and made good progress on it. I had never stuck the first move before but managed to do it nearly every try this time and got the next few moves figured out before my fingers got too sore to do the whole thing. I'm pretty confident I'll do the problem next time I go up there.

Scott then went down and sent Jaws in a few tries to begin what was to be a great day for him. Soon after this, we all headed to work on Counselor Moon - a V7 on the face around the corner to the right of the tall slab. Scott sent this heady problem too and was really psyched - he made it look easy.

During this time, a lot of us were working on a double arete problem that I don't know the name of that was really fun:

The problem has a very short fall and isn't too hard so we weren't using pads on it - and of course I managed to blow off it elbow first into the rock below and bleed a bunch. Got it wrapped up with some paper towels and climbing tape and it was fortunately fine.

We then all went to the Exodus area and Jim went to work on the Left of Exodus project. He was working the stand start and nearly sent it -- got into the top out a few times but didn't quite do it. To the left of this is a problem called Umberger Helper (put up by Joe Umberger I guess?) that is pretty fun that I was able to do.

After this, we headed to My Stereo for a few tries on that and then headed home. Had some car problems so had to borrow jumper cables from some other people but we managed to make it home finally - at 2 am.

Scott, Me, Nic, Chad, Jim, Eric

Taylors Falls Again

Nic, Kelly, and myself headed back to the cave at Taylors Falls today. Our goals being Midget Sit Start (V7) for myself and Cave Traverse (V8 or possibly 9?) for Kelly as we were both really close yesterday. After warming up for a few minutes I gave the Midget a try and sent it right away. Felt good to do -- the moves are fun on this one and this problem I remember looking at years ago when I first started climbing and wondering if I'd ever be able to do it.

Shortly after this, Kelly McBride did the 2nd female ascent of the Cave Traverse and all projects for the day were completed! No video of me doing Midget but I did get Kelly on the Cave Traverse:

Taylors Falls - Left of Lloyds

Today I headed out to Taylors Falls for some climbing with my friends Nic Oklobzija, Eric Johnson, Kelly McBride, and Chris and Lynn Johnson. We started the day by hiking over to the Wisconsin side and climbing in the cave. My current project is Midget Sit Start - a V7 I think - that climbs up the middle. I got through the crux and was on the easy top-out when I blew the beta and came tumbling off. I ended up not doing it today but I know it should go very soon now. Kelly was working on the Cave Traverse with Eric and she came really close to doing it. Some of us might head back up tomorrow and hopefully we can both finish these projects.

After climbing in the cave for awhile, we headed back to the MN side so Nic could have a go on Left of Lloyds. Left of Lloyds - at V11 - is one of the hardest boulder problems at Taylors Falls if not the hardest. Nic has been working this problem for a long time and he crushed it on his 2nd go of the day. This is only the 5th ascent of this boulder problem -- a true MN testpiece. And the video:

Nice job Nic!

And some pictures from the cave: