Recently I've started seeing a large increase in the number of videos floating around the internet that are hosted at vimeo.com (including some great bouldering clips at Ethan Pringle's blog I discovered today that I'd recommend checking out: http://www.ethanpringle.com/?page_id=104). I've noticed that videos on vimeo are always far higher quality and have a niftier player interface than youtube so I've decided the check it out today... I must say I'm really impressed - these guys have thought really hard about how to make online video sharing a better experience for uploaders and watchers. I'd recommend anybody uploading videos to youtube to give vimeo a good look. I'm pretty certain I'll be using it from now on. Here's a video I've published before of a trip to sawmill last fall that I've re-uploaded to vimeo for comparison (the differences are even more noticeable full screen):
Vimeo:
Sawmill Creek Dome Bouldering from Neil Berget on Vimeo.
Youtube:
Wednesday, July 09, 2008
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Kris and Lynn's Wall
Haven't done a whole lot of climbing since my Joe's trip back in April. Made it to Taylors twice or so to work on Cave Traverse but just haven't quite pulled that thing off yet. It's been too hot for quite awhile now to get psyched enough to drive anywhere for outdoor climbing.
I have been climbing about once a week at Kris and Lynn's on their backyard wall they built last summer. It's been a lot of fun. On Friday there was a pretty good session going on and I took a time lapse video:
I have been climbing about once a week at Kris and Lynn's on their backyard wall they built last summer. It's been a lot of fun. On Friday there was a pretty good session going on and I took a time lapse video:
Wednesday, April 09, 2008
Joe's Valley Part 2
Finally getting around to Part 2 of the Joe's trip....
Thursday ended up being a pretty good day for me. We went up to the Garden of Eden area and I checked out Anatomy Act - a V7. The guide isn't very clear as to what the problem is exactly but after talking with some other guys there I finally figured out it climbs up an arete. I almost flashed the thing. I fell off a sloper on the topout that I couldn't quite hang on to right. Fortunately, I did the thing next try which is the fastest I've ever done a V7. It starts on 2 crimps without really any feet to speak of and a pretty big move right to a pocket. Then slap your left hand up on slopers a few times, get your foot up to the start holds, then another pretty big move with your right to a bad sloper. Adjust it and rock up to a nice rail and it's pretty much over.
After Anatomy Act I checked out the other lines in the area and decided to try Arma - another V7. Not the most amazing line but it looked worth doing. I nearly flashed this one too! Falling off the topout again. After jumping onto the topout and doing it, I did it on my next try from the start. It involves 2 crimpy moves to a jug on the topout slab and then a couple of balancey crimpy moves on the slab to get your feet up. A nice little problem.
On Friday, I went back yet again to the Boy Size area but failed yet again on the same move. So it'll have to wait for a future trip. I did try Boy Size Right, however, which starts on the same starting holds and goes right. It ended up being a great problem. One guide calls it a V4 and the other a V6. I was able to do it in 2 tries and was quite happy to do it.
Brea worked more on Peep Show and made great progress. She made the crimpy first moves look easy and she got very close on the higher moves as well. It was cool to see the progress and even though it's too bad she didn't send it -- it's something for her to dream about and it'll be waiting for her next time :)...
We finished the day checking out the Gun Shot boulder and both of us climbed on the easy problems to finish the trip.
We still had some time left in the day so we drove out to the Gulch Overlook in the San Rafael Swell to check out the Little Grand Canyon. I had visited this spot last year and it is still amazing. Huge views of the canyon all to ourselves. A great way to spend the last afternoon of our trip.
Thursday ended up being a pretty good day for me. We went up to the Garden of Eden area and I checked out Anatomy Act - a V7. The guide isn't very clear as to what the problem is exactly but after talking with some other guys there I finally figured out it climbs up an arete. I almost flashed the thing. I fell off a sloper on the topout that I couldn't quite hang on to right. Fortunately, I did the thing next try which is the fastest I've ever done a V7. It starts on 2 crimps without really any feet to speak of and a pretty big move right to a pocket. Then slap your left hand up on slopers a few times, get your foot up to the start holds, then another pretty big move with your right to a bad sloper. Adjust it and rock up to a nice rail and it's pretty much over.
After Anatomy Act I checked out the other lines in the area and decided to try Arma - another V7. Not the most amazing line but it looked worth doing. I nearly flashed this one too! Falling off the topout again. After jumping onto the topout and doing it, I did it on my next try from the start. It involves 2 crimpy moves to a jug on the topout slab and then a couple of balancey crimpy moves on the slab to get your feet up. A nice little problem.
On Friday, I went back yet again to the Boy Size area but failed yet again on the same move. So it'll have to wait for a future trip. I did try Boy Size Right, however, which starts on the same starting holds and goes right. It ended up being a great problem. One guide calls it a V4 and the other a V6. I was able to do it in 2 tries and was quite happy to do it.
Brea worked more on Peep Show and made great progress. She made the crimpy first moves look easy and she got very close on the higher moves as well. It was cool to see the progress and even though it's too bad she didn't send it -- it's something for her to dream about and it'll be waiting for her next time :)...
We finished the day checking out the Gun Shot boulder and both of us climbed on the easy problems to finish the trip.
We still had some time left in the day so we drove out to the Gulch Overlook in the San Rafael Swell to check out the Little Grand Canyon. I had visited this spot last year and it is still amazing. Huge views of the canyon all to ourselves. A great way to spend the last afternoon of our trip.
Wednesday, April 02, 2008
Joe's Valley 2008 Part 1
It is good to be back in Utah! I've been in Joe's Valley since Sunday night for a week long trip with my girlfriend Brea and it's been a great trip so far. We made the drive on Saturday and Sunday and have been camping out here. We got here in a thick snow fall but got camp set up successfully and fortunately the snow was gone by mid-day Monday.
We started Monday at the Boy Size area which I hadn't seen before. I warmed up on a few easy problems and then ended up trying and doing a short unnamed V6 in a couple tries. After this I tried Boy Size - a very cool V7. I quickly did all the moves except 1 and thought it would go soon, but I wasn't able to put it together.
Brea also climbed a few problems in this area. She did her first outdoor problem - Dos Mundos -- a V0 on the back of the Boy Size boulder and then Sole Food - a really cool V0 technical slab on some very nice rock.
Sole Food:
After the Boy Size area, we headed to the Small One boulder which is right on the side of the road. Brea climbed 2 V1's on this boulder - Tiny and Mini. I decided to try Runt - a crimpy V7 that I briefly tried last year and couldn't pull off the ground on. This year, I nearly did it first try, falling off one of the last moves and then did it completely on my 4th try. Very glad to see the improvement.
Brea working on Mini:
On Tuesday we headed back to the Boy Size area as I really wanted to do Boy Size and I was also curious to try Golden Plates - another nice looking V7 in a picture I'd seen. I ended up making no progress on Boy Size but hope to get it after a rest day now. Golden Plates also shut me down -- the crimps were too small for my fingers. Brea did a cool unnamed V1 on the back of the Golden Plates boulder. She really had to work for this one -- got her first flapper in her pinky finger but it was fine after taping it up. She also did a nice V0 on the back of the Boy Size boulder. She then talked me into trying a V5 next to Golden Plates called Mono e Mono. I jumped on and did it first try. This is my first V5 flash so I was excited and glad I tried it. After this we hiked over the The Fit boulder which has a very cool looking wall on it with 3 problems. Peep Show is a pretty inspiring looking V1 that goes up the middle and The Fit is a V6 or V7, depending on what guide you look in. I decided to give The Fit a try since we were there and ended up doing in on my 4th try. Nice moves on solid rock on the face but then the topout was awfully sandy and quite scary feeling.
The Fit:
Peep Show:
After this, we headed to the Maxi Pad boulder to try the amazing looking V6 Maxi Pad. I must say this this line is among the best I've ever seen. It climbs out a huge prow that comes out of a big cave on amazing rock. It is set a bit up the valley as well in a sort of ampitheater section of the rock that is really neat to be in. The moves are huge and I worked it for awhile but couldn't muster the strength to do the crux throw. This is a must-do boulder problem someday.
This doesn't do Maxi Pad justice at all:
We finished the day by heading to the Warm-up boulder and I ended up doing a V1 called Scoopable that ended up being higher and scarier than I thought it was - but it worked out fine. Brea did a V0 called Whatever and we decided to call it a day.
Today is a rest day that we're spending in Price.
Only 2 days of climing left -- going way too fast. I really hope to do Boy Size, and I think I'll get on They Call Him Jordan on Thursday.
We started Monday at the Boy Size area which I hadn't seen before. I warmed up on a few easy problems and then ended up trying and doing a short unnamed V6 in a couple tries. After this I tried Boy Size - a very cool V7. I quickly did all the moves except 1 and thought it would go soon, but I wasn't able to put it together.
Brea also climbed a few problems in this area. She did her first outdoor problem - Dos Mundos -- a V0 on the back of the Boy Size boulder and then Sole Food - a really cool V0 technical slab on some very nice rock.
Sole Food:
After the Boy Size area, we headed to the Small One boulder which is right on the side of the road. Brea climbed 2 V1's on this boulder - Tiny and Mini. I decided to try Runt - a crimpy V7 that I briefly tried last year and couldn't pull off the ground on. This year, I nearly did it first try, falling off one of the last moves and then did it completely on my 4th try. Very glad to see the improvement.
Brea working on Mini:
On Tuesday we headed back to the Boy Size area as I really wanted to do Boy Size and I was also curious to try Golden Plates - another nice looking V7 in a picture I'd seen. I ended up making no progress on Boy Size but hope to get it after a rest day now. Golden Plates also shut me down -- the crimps were too small for my fingers. Brea did a cool unnamed V1 on the back of the Golden Plates boulder. She really had to work for this one -- got her first flapper in her pinky finger but it was fine after taping it up. She also did a nice V0 on the back of the Boy Size boulder. She then talked me into trying a V5 next to Golden Plates called Mono e Mono. I jumped on and did it first try. This is my first V5 flash so I was excited and glad I tried it. After this we hiked over the The Fit boulder which has a very cool looking wall on it with 3 problems. Peep Show is a pretty inspiring looking V1 that goes up the middle and The Fit is a V6 or V7, depending on what guide you look in. I decided to give The Fit a try since we were there and ended up doing in on my 4th try. Nice moves on solid rock on the face but then the topout was awfully sandy and quite scary feeling.
The Fit:
Peep Show:
After this, we headed to the Maxi Pad boulder to try the amazing looking V6 Maxi Pad. I must say this this line is among the best I've ever seen. It climbs out a huge prow that comes out of a big cave on amazing rock. It is set a bit up the valley as well in a sort of ampitheater section of the rock that is really neat to be in. The moves are huge and I worked it for awhile but couldn't muster the strength to do the crux throw. This is a must-do boulder problem someday.
This doesn't do Maxi Pad justice at all:
We finished the day by heading to the Warm-up boulder and I ended up doing a V1 called Scoopable that ended up being higher and scarier than I thought it was - but it worked out fine. Brea did a V0 called Whatever and we decided to call it a day.
Today is a rest day that we're spending in Price.
Only 2 days of climing left -- going way too fast. I really hope to do Boy Size, and I think I'll get on They Call Him Jordan on Thursday.
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Joe's Valley 2008 Coming Soon...
I leave on Saturday!
Here's a highlight reel of last year's 2 trips that I put together a long time ago that I never bothered to post:
Here's a highlight reel of last year's 2 trips that I put together a long time ago that I never bothered to post:
Friday, February 29, 2008
Taylors Falls - 2/23/2008
Last Saturday Nic, Chris Hirsch, and myself headed out to Taylors hoping to find some climbable rock. Despite their being lots of snow everywhere, we did all manage to get climbing in on the problems we wanted to try. We started at the Left of Lloyds area where Nic was trying the sit start - The Sporting Life. He gave it a few really good burns and managed to slap the final sloper but couldn't quite do it.
After this, Chris went to work cleaning up Sizzlefoot - a 5.12 route that he wanted to boulder and Nic and myself walked over to the cave so I could try my project The Cave Traverse. It was my first time on it since the fall so I forgot my beta on the opening moves on my first go but quickly re-learned it. I didn't manage to send it but feel much stronger on it - my injuries from hueco have been healing much better than I feared and didn't present a problem. I got through the drop move and into the opening moves of the Midget feeling very strong and fell at that point a few times from technical reasons so I know I'm strong enough to do the problem..just have to put it together.
Once I had enough, we all joined up at Sizzlefoot and Chris bouldered the thing! Truly frightening and inspiring to watch all at the same time. This line is usually top-roped and is probably over 25 feet tall with the crux move coming at the top. Chris warmed up by climbing up to the jug at the midway point a few times and jumped down before doing the whole thing. Very nicely done! I wish I'd have gotten video of it but we decided a spotter would be more valuable than video.
After Chris did it, Nic decided to give it a go as well. He took a few long falls from just above the jug in the middle before finally working through the crux and making it to the lip. But he grabbed a wet spot that hadn't been cleaned and blew off the top! Chris and I could only watch and attempt to spot as he fell all the way to the pads... somehow he managed to not get hurt and got right back on the problem. After taking one more pretty long fall from above the jug (at this point I decided I had to take video in case he fell off the top again) that is in the video he sent it too.
Here's some footage Nic edited together from the day:
Pretty nice day considering we didn't know what to expect when we got out there.. Hopefully there will be more days to come very soon.
After this, Chris went to work cleaning up Sizzlefoot - a 5.12 route that he wanted to boulder and Nic and myself walked over to the cave so I could try my project The Cave Traverse. It was my first time on it since the fall so I forgot my beta on the opening moves on my first go but quickly re-learned it. I didn't manage to send it but feel much stronger on it - my injuries from hueco have been healing much better than I feared and didn't present a problem. I got through the drop move and into the opening moves of the Midget feeling very strong and fell at that point a few times from technical reasons so I know I'm strong enough to do the problem..just have to put it together.
Once I had enough, we all joined up at Sizzlefoot and Chris bouldered the thing! Truly frightening and inspiring to watch all at the same time. This line is usually top-roped and is probably over 25 feet tall with the crux move coming at the top. Chris warmed up by climbing up to the jug at the midway point a few times and jumped down before doing the whole thing. Very nicely done! I wish I'd have gotten video of it but we decided a spotter would be more valuable than video.
After Chris did it, Nic decided to give it a go as well. He took a few long falls from just above the jug in the middle before finally working through the crux and making it to the lip. But he grabbed a wet spot that hadn't been cleaned and blew off the top! Chris and I could only watch and attempt to spot as he fell all the way to the pads... somehow he managed to not get hurt and got right back on the problem. After taking one more pretty long fall from above the jug (at this point I decided I had to take video in case he fell off the top again) that is in the video he sent it too.
Here's some footage Nic edited together from the day:
Pretty nice day considering we didn't know what to expect when we got out there.. Hopefully there will be more days to come very soon.
Monday, January 28, 2008
Stop the Madness...
Oh what a trip.. The Murphy's Law climbing trip. It's finally all over now..
Here's the rundown:
3 of us got ridiculously sick (puking guts out/not eating anything for 3 days/losing 10 pounds sick)
everybody got injured at some point: a tendon in my left knee and a tendon in my arm connected to right ring finger (which will probably keep me from climbing for a month), eric and nic pulled hamstrings and couldn't heel hook, chad sprained an ankle
Oh well -- even an awful climbing trip is still much better than sitting at home on the couch. I had a great time hanging with friends and met a lot of really cool people from around the world. Hueco is beautiful and I do hope to get back again.
The exact moment of tendon injury:
Final day:
Here's the rundown:
3 of us got ridiculously sick (puking guts out/not eating anything for 3 days/losing 10 pounds sick)
everybody got injured at some point: a tendon in my left knee and a tendon in my arm connected to right ring finger (which will probably keep me from climbing for a month), eric and nic pulled hamstrings and couldn't heel hook, chad sprained an ankle
Oh well -- even an awful climbing trip is still much better than sitting at home on the couch. I had a great time hanging with friends and met a lot of really cool people from around the world. Hueco is beautiful and I do hope to get back again.
The exact moment of tendon injury:
Final day:
Monday, January 21, 2008
Hueco Update #3
Still in Hueco. Everybody seems to be at close to 100% health finally........
(PUNCH!KICK!POW!)
TAKEOVER-
by Nicholas Oklobzija
back to 100% my ass.
Let us take role
skin- well I have a full pad flapper (pointer finger) f'n power of silence (still not sent)
stomach- able to eat however I left Minnesota at 152 and am now at most 143.... WTF!
muscles- looking amazing seeing that i have rested and sunbathed more then i have climbed
friends- great as always, yet we could hang out in minnesota (did not need to spend 700$ to go chill in a coffee shop in el paso) not my idea of a good time.
family- lost a great woman in my family this week and a key player in my life (we will miss you bonnie!)
girl friend- is wishing she would have thought twice about "us" (joke)
but on the bright side i would change nothing... this will be the trip of my life (i just have to kick ass these next couple days) if all go's well i will climb "dark age" v11, "power of silence" v10, and "diaphanous sea" v11/12. I do not want to sound like a baby i am just letting the public get the real story kinda like cnn?
well neil is coming to better go before he wakes up..
peace,
-----------------
........okay back to Neil here...Nic is right - this trip has really sucked at times and featured extreme hits to our psyche but we still have a week to go and things are on the up.
I sent Baby Face V7 on Friday on my 2nd try of the day which is one of the best lines I've done. My sights are now firmly set on Adjust Your Attitude - a roof V8 with some of the craziest moves I've tried. I have all but one of the moves worked out and it feels close.
Chad and Eric are both working on projects as well. Chad hopes to do Baby Martini V6 and Eric has done King Cobra V6 is making progress on Speed Bump V7. Nic has done the Right hand variation of Free Willy V9 and has his projects as well.
Jeff Fink joined us this weekend for his first outdoor bouldering experience -- quite an introduction this was! He really enjoyed climbing on a whole lot of fun problems throughout North Mountain. Nice work Jeff!
Dan and Andy have left us to go back home. It was fun climbing with these guys and too bad to see them go.
Here's my send of Baby Face:
Nic On Free Willy:
Jeff on a nice line:
Warming up:
Chad:
Adjust Your Attitude:
(PUNCH!KICK!POW!)
TAKEOVER-
by Nicholas Oklobzija
back to 100% my ass.
Let us take role
skin- well I have a full pad flapper (pointer finger) f'n power of silence (still not sent)
stomach- able to eat however I left Minnesota at 152 and am now at most 143.... WTF!
muscles- looking amazing seeing that i have rested and sunbathed more then i have climbed
friends- great as always, yet we could hang out in minnesota (did not need to spend 700$ to go chill in a coffee shop in el paso) not my idea of a good time.
family- lost a great woman in my family this week and a key player in my life (we will miss you bonnie!)
girl friend- is wishing she would have thought twice about "us" (joke)
but on the bright side i would change nothing... this will be the trip of my life (i just have to kick ass these next couple days) if all go's well i will climb "dark age" v11, "power of silence" v10, and "diaphanous sea" v11/12. I do not want to sound like a baby i am just letting the public get the real story kinda like cnn?
well neil is coming to better go before he wakes up..
peace,
-----------------
........okay back to Neil here...Nic is right - this trip has really sucked at times and featured extreme hits to our psyche but we still have a week to go and things are on the up.
I sent Baby Face V7 on Friday on my 2nd try of the day which is one of the best lines I've done. My sights are now firmly set on Adjust Your Attitude - a roof V8 with some of the craziest moves I've tried. I have all but one of the moves worked out and it feels close.
Chad and Eric are both working on projects as well. Chad hopes to do Baby Martini V6 and Eric has done King Cobra V6 is making progress on Speed Bump V7. Nic has done the Right hand variation of Free Willy V9 and has his projects as well.
Jeff Fink joined us this weekend for his first outdoor bouldering experience -- quite an introduction this was! He really enjoyed climbing on a whole lot of fun problems throughout North Mountain. Nice work Jeff!
Dan and Andy have left us to go back home. It was fun climbing with these guys and too bad to see them go.
Here's my send of Baby Face:
Nic On Free Willy:
Jeff on a nice line:
Warming up:
Chad:
Adjust Your Attitude:
Thursday, January 17, 2008
Hueco Update
Not much to report. I got food poisoning or something a few days ago and am just now getting better from it. Yesterday was my first day of climbing since my first day and I was really weak as I've eaten hardly any food for the past 3 days. I did make some progress on Baby Face and have no doubt that I will send it when I stop hyperventilating after 2 moves :). I'm falling currently going for the 2nd pinch on the arete.
I'm not the only one feeling under the weather so it seems only Chad has really been doing much of any climbing. He did a nice V5 called Lobster Claw:
After this, he and Andy went to work on Lithologic and Andy did it 2nd go. Here's Chad on it who is also very close:
I'm not the only one feeling under the weather so it seems only Chad has really been doing much of any climbing. He did a nice V5 called Lobster Claw:
After this, he and Andy went to work on Lithologic and Andy did it 2nd go. Here's Chad on it who is also very close:
Monday, January 14, 2008
Hueco Tanks Day 1
We've all made it to Hueco. Eric Johnson, Chad Johnson, Nic Oklobzija and myself met up with Dan and Andy Kolar and our trip has begun. On Sunday (the 13th) we started the trip with a circuit of amazing easier problems. I commented after the day was over that this day was probably the greatest climbing day of my life as measured by sheer number of mega-classic problems done for the first time on a single day.
We started by doing the V0 problem Melon Patch. This is a tall, beautiful face covered in large jug huecos and was the perfect way to start the trip:
After this we hiked over to check out the Terremer/Diaphanous Sea cave to look at the amazingly small holds on Terremer. We then did a V1 highball slab problem called Hershey's Symphony:
We all did this one a couple times and Nic started working the moves to Diaphanous Sea:
After this we walked over and did the V3 Sign of the Cross. I was very psyched to flash this one.
After this, we went over to check out the V10 Power of Silence and Nic started trying it. He almost did it his second try of this trip, getting into the left hand gaston slot and falling going for the top. I'm sure he'll get this one soon.
After this, we hiked up the chains and all did the V2 roof problem Nobody Gets Out of Here Alive. Very fun moves on jug holds out a horizontal roof:
We then went and did the super long, amazing V2 problem Ghetto Simulator. Props to Chad for flashing this one. I got too pumped my first try but did it second go. It is the longest ropeless problem I've ever done. But it parallels a big slab behind you the whole way that if you get into trouble you can step off at any time.
After this we headed up to the Baby Face area. Eric did a V6 problem in about 2 tries called Daily Dick Dose that he has worked in years past and made it look easy:
I gave Baby Face a few tries and am really psyched to do this one. I think when I come back fresh I will do it right away (hopefully!). This is probably the best V7 I've ever seen:
All in all an amazing start...
We started by doing the V0 problem Melon Patch. This is a tall, beautiful face covered in large jug huecos and was the perfect way to start the trip:
After this we hiked over to check out the Terremer/Diaphanous Sea cave to look at the amazingly small holds on Terremer. We then did a V1 highball slab problem called Hershey's Symphony:
We all did this one a couple times and Nic started working the moves to Diaphanous Sea:
After this we walked over and did the V3 Sign of the Cross. I was very psyched to flash this one.
After this, we went over to check out the V10 Power of Silence and Nic started trying it. He almost did it his second try of this trip, getting into the left hand gaston slot and falling going for the top. I'm sure he'll get this one soon.
After this, we hiked up the chains and all did the V2 roof problem Nobody Gets Out of Here Alive. Very fun moves on jug holds out a horizontal roof:
We then went and did the super long, amazing V2 problem Ghetto Simulator. Props to Chad for flashing this one. I got too pumped my first try but did it second go. It is the longest ropeless problem I've ever done. But it parallels a big slab behind you the whole way that if you get into trouble you can step off at any time.
After this we headed up to the Baby Face area. Eric did a V6 problem in about 2 tries called Daily Dick Dose that he has worked in years past and made it look easy:
I gave Baby Face a few tries and am really psyched to do this one. I think when I come back fresh I will do it right away (hopefully!). This is probably the best V7 I've ever seen:
All in all an amazing start...
Wednesday, January 02, 2008
2007 (Personal Bouldering) Review
How strange it sometimes seems to measure success in terms of 10 to 20 foot sections of rock. Start on the ground and get to the top, using the hardest section of rock you can find or manage.. Stepping back and imagining this sport from a non-participants perspective is always good for a chuckle and maybe a healthy dose of perspective. But no matter how hard it is to explain and how tired I get of explaining why climbing without ropes is not the suicidal pursuit non-climbers perceive it as I am currently of the conclusion that this sport is truly the greatest sport.
2007 was quite a year for my personal climbing development. I'm not the strongest guy around but fortunately success is a personally defined attribute in climbing and by my reckoning - this was easily my most successful year yet.
I've been climbing for 6 years now -- starting in late 2001 hanging from top ropes at VE. Before the start of 2007, I had never climbed anything harder than V5 and my interest in the sport was actually at an all time low -- By late 2006 I had hardly climbed in 6 months. But then two things happened. First, on Thanksgiving Day 2006 Eric Johnson found the single most amazing boulder I've seen anywhere practically in his cabin's backyard and second, my first trip to Bishop (and first climbing trip anywhere for more than 2 or 3 days) in January 2007.
The boulder discovery was important to me as it injected a new interest in Minnesota bouldering in me. At that time I was bored with Taylors and frustrated at Sawmill (since then my attitude has shifted significantly on both these places) so the possibility of new lines on amazing rock was a huge shot in the arm and motivating to get stronger and contribute to its development.
The trip to Bishop opened my eyes to how beautiful and fulfilling spending time among rocks can be. On that trip I think I completed only a single boulder problem but I was in school the entire week and learned an immense amount about how to move on rock and what my body was capable of pulling on. I came back very psyched to get stronger and ready to plan the next trip somewhere.
Well, to make a long story short, I did go on more trips and I have gotten a lot stronger. Joe's Valley in Utah twice -- once in April with a group of friends and back again in May alone (I did meet up with friends I'd met on the road). A quick trip to Colorado where I got completely shut down but still had fun. A week in Horsepens 40 in Alabama in the fall on the crazy sandstone. And back to Bishop for a second time to close out the year where I climbed everything I had left undone a year ago. Not to mention dozens of local trips to Taylors, Sawmill and the development of the Cabin/Big Swirly Boulder up north which has exceeded all of our expectations. Favorite problems of the year include Scary Monsters V6 in Joe's, High Plains Drifter V7 and Saigon V6 in Bishop, The Sycamore V2/3 at the Cabin Boulder but I can think of dozens more that were a blast.
While I do think it is important not to place too much emphasis on grades, they are the most obvious way of measuring progress. So as long as you're not skipping over amazing problems just because of their low grade or searching out only the soft problems to inflate your tick list I think it is important to be trying to increase what grades you are capable of climbing over time. For me personally I was able to go from having never climbed a V6 to climbing 15 problems V6 and above including 7 V7's in the past year. To me that is solid progress and I'm quite proud of this. I hope to continue to get stronger and hopefully break into some V8's and hopefully beyond soon. Who knows -- maybe in Hueco in 2 weeks I can get started.
Another aspect of climbing that has become quite clear to me is how wonderfully social the sport is. I've made some great friends in the past year and developed older friendships further as a direct result of climbing. There are of course some loud exceptions, but it seems the vast majority of people you run into at climbing destinations are some of the coolest and friendliest people around. The more you travel the more you begin to run into the same people randomly at different places around the country and pick up where you left off with people. How crazy is that? Not too many activities allow that. It's also funny how diverse the people are that get drawn together. 16 year old kids stand next to 40 year olds and everyone in between equally enthused and cheering each other on as equals to succeed. There are of course dramatic exceptions and occasional back-biting but that seems to be the exception.
Well, I've written this mainly for myself but perhaps some of you out there that read this found something of interest in here. Thank you to the friends I've been able to share this year with and here's to a great 2008...
2007 was quite a year for my personal climbing development. I'm not the strongest guy around but fortunately success is a personally defined attribute in climbing and by my reckoning - this was easily my most successful year yet.
I've been climbing for 6 years now -- starting in late 2001 hanging from top ropes at VE. Before the start of 2007, I had never climbed anything harder than V5 and my interest in the sport was actually at an all time low -- By late 2006 I had hardly climbed in 6 months. But then two things happened. First, on Thanksgiving Day 2006 Eric Johnson found the single most amazing boulder I've seen anywhere practically in his cabin's backyard and second, my first trip to Bishop (and first climbing trip anywhere for more than 2 or 3 days) in January 2007.
The boulder discovery was important to me as it injected a new interest in Minnesota bouldering in me. At that time I was bored with Taylors and frustrated at Sawmill (since then my attitude has shifted significantly on both these places) so the possibility of new lines on amazing rock was a huge shot in the arm and motivating to get stronger and contribute to its development.
The trip to Bishop opened my eyes to how beautiful and fulfilling spending time among rocks can be. On that trip I think I completed only a single boulder problem but I was in school the entire week and learned an immense amount about how to move on rock and what my body was capable of pulling on. I came back very psyched to get stronger and ready to plan the next trip somewhere.
Well, to make a long story short, I did go on more trips and I have gotten a lot stronger. Joe's Valley in Utah twice -- once in April with a group of friends and back again in May alone (I did meet up with friends I'd met on the road). A quick trip to Colorado where I got completely shut down but still had fun. A week in Horsepens 40 in Alabama in the fall on the crazy sandstone. And back to Bishop for a second time to close out the year where I climbed everything I had left undone a year ago. Not to mention dozens of local trips to Taylors, Sawmill and the development of the Cabin/Big Swirly Boulder up north which has exceeded all of our expectations. Favorite problems of the year include Scary Monsters V6 in Joe's, High Plains Drifter V7 and Saigon V6 in Bishop, The Sycamore V2/3 at the Cabin Boulder but I can think of dozens more that were a blast.
While I do think it is important not to place too much emphasis on grades, they are the most obvious way of measuring progress. So as long as you're not skipping over amazing problems just because of their low grade or searching out only the soft problems to inflate your tick list I think it is important to be trying to increase what grades you are capable of climbing over time. For me personally I was able to go from having never climbed a V6 to climbing 15 problems V6 and above including 7 V7's in the past year. To me that is solid progress and I'm quite proud of this. I hope to continue to get stronger and hopefully break into some V8's and hopefully beyond soon. Who knows -- maybe in Hueco in 2 weeks I can get started.
Another aspect of climbing that has become quite clear to me is how wonderfully social the sport is. I've made some great friends in the past year and developed older friendships further as a direct result of climbing. There are of course some loud exceptions, but it seems the vast majority of people you run into at climbing destinations are some of the coolest and friendliest people around. The more you travel the more you begin to run into the same people randomly at different places around the country and pick up where you left off with people. How crazy is that? Not too many activities allow that. It's also funny how diverse the people are that get drawn together. 16 year old kids stand next to 40 year olds and everyone in between equally enthused and cheering each other on as equals to succeed. There are of course dramatic exceptions and occasional back-biting but that seems to be the exception.
Well, I've written this mainly for myself but perhaps some of you out there that read this found something of interest in here. Thank you to the friends I've been able to share this year with and here's to a great 2008...
Tuesday, January 01, 2008
End of Trip
I'm just killing time in the Las Vegas Airport - about to celebrate the new year's here in Terminal D...woohoo!
We finished the trip by heading to the Happies. I was able to barely do Action Figure - a V6 I couldn't do last year. This was particularly nice for me as it completed for me every problem I got on last year that I gave any significant effort to that I didn't do -- basically met all my trip goals and assured myself that I have indeed gotten significantly stronger in the past year.
I also did Ketron Classic -- a very nice V4.
Eric worked out all the individual moves on Cholos and has another project to dream about:
We finished the trip by heading to the Happies. I was able to barely do Action Figure - a V6 I couldn't do last year. This was particularly nice for me as it completed for me every problem I got on last year that I gave any significant effort to that I didn't do -- basically met all my trip goals and assured myself that I have indeed gotten significantly stronger in the past year.
I also did Ketron Classic -- a very nice V4.
Eric worked out all the individual moves on Cholos and has another project to dream about:
Sunday, December 30, 2007
Bishop Continued.
Our 4th day in Bishop was a rest day. The 5 of us drove up to try to find the hot springs to relax in but all we found was one of them that was already occupied. Did get to see some nice views however:
The next day we were back out to the Buttermilks. We started the day working on Get Carter - a classic V7. Pretty cool looking problem with a very hard start involving either a huge drop knee or a wide spread and powerful move. I worked out the top moves pretty easily but got completely shut down on the bottom. Eric did pretty well on it and was able to do all the moves and could probably do it all with more work.
After that we headed back to the main Buttermilks area and I ended up doing a really fun V5 called Go Granny Go
The following day we started by getting on the Ironman Traverse (V4). Super classic line that I tried a few times a year ago and didn't have the endurance to do. I was able to do it this year fortunately (barely though), in addition to Eric and Kris who also did it.
After this we briefly tried the Leary/Bard Arete (V5) but none of us had the strength/skin at this point to do it:
And after that we hiked up to the Checkerboard V7/8 to check it out. We tried a few moves but it's way too crimpy for me at this point in the trip. A truly inspiring line though -- perhaps the best I've ever seen. Something I'd love to do on a future trip.
Today I didn't do much climbing -- felt pretty much worthless. Started the day trying Pain Grain (V5) - but it lived up to its name and I gave up after 2 tries.
I also briefly tried the Cave Problem but gave up on that too after ripping off the holds and tearing yet another hole in my fingers. Kris got it though. We also went over to work the crimpy Yayoi (V7) but I decided not to try it to protect my fingers. Kris got this one as well after about 30 minutes of work. I finished the day by doing Green Wall Essential (V2) along with Eric. Nice line on a beautiful face.
Tomorrow we'll climb for a few hours and then head back to Vegas and on home. I'll try to put a slideshow up when I get home. My fingers are completely shredded (worst they've ever been - holes in most my fingers it seems) but I'm really psyched to get them healed and pulling again in Hueco in 2 weeks!
The next day we were back out to the Buttermilks. We started the day working on Get Carter - a classic V7. Pretty cool looking problem with a very hard start involving either a huge drop knee or a wide spread and powerful move. I worked out the top moves pretty easily but got completely shut down on the bottom. Eric did pretty well on it and was able to do all the moves and could probably do it all with more work.
After that we headed back to the main Buttermilks area and I ended up doing a really fun V5 called Go Granny Go
The following day we started by getting on the Ironman Traverse (V4). Super classic line that I tried a few times a year ago and didn't have the endurance to do. I was able to do it this year fortunately (barely though), in addition to Eric and Kris who also did it.
After this we briefly tried the Leary/Bard Arete (V5) but none of us had the strength/skin at this point to do it:
And after that we hiked up to the Checkerboard V7/8 to check it out. We tried a few moves but it's way too crimpy for me at this point in the trip. A truly inspiring line though -- perhaps the best I've ever seen. Something I'd love to do on a future trip.
Today I didn't do much climbing -- felt pretty much worthless. Started the day trying Pain Grain (V5) - but it lived up to its name and I gave up after 2 tries.
I also briefly tried the Cave Problem but gave up on that too after ripping off the holds and tearing yet another hole in my fingers. Kris got it though. We also went over to work the crimpy Yayoi (V7) but I decided not to try it to protect my fingers. Kris got this one as well after about 30 minutes of work. I finished the day by doing Green Wall Essential (V2) along with Eric. Nice line on a beautiful face.
Tomorrow we'll climb for a few hours and then head back to Vegas and on home. I'll try to put a slideshow up when I get home. My fingers are completely shredded (worst they've ever been - holes in most my fingers it seems) but I'm really psyched to get them healed and pulling again in Hueco in 2 weeks!
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Bishop
I've been in Bishop for the past 3 days and am absolutely loving it. Eric Johnson and I rolled into town on Christmas Eve at about 3 in the afternoon and drove straight out to the Happies to warm up for the trip. We figured there wasn't enough daylight to make the Buttermilks worth it. We started by doing a V4 called Sucker Punch and a V3 called Carrot Top that were both pretty fun and nice warm-ups.
Eric on Sucker Punch:
We then headed over to Serengetti (V5) - a classic problem that shut me down and ripped a hole in my finger last year. I did it this time in 2 tries and Eric quickly repeated it as well.
Eric on Serengetti:
We ended the day by working on The Hulk (V6) -- which felt doable if we go back to the Happies -- and by doing a high and committing V1 called Heavenly Path.
On the following day - Christmas - we met up with Kris and Lynn Johnson and Dillon Doyle and headed up to the Buttermilks. The Buttermilks are one of the most scenic bouldering spots in the country if not the world. We warmed up on the Sunshine Boulder and then quickly went up to work on Saigon - a classic V6 I worked on but couldn't do last January. This time was a different story and I did it on my 3rd try. A truly spectacular line. Here's me sticking the crux move:
Kris worked on Saigon Direct (V9) for awhile and he really seems close. It's pretty tall and committing and he was taking some big falls down to the pads:
After this we worked on High Plains Drifter (V7) for a little while and Lynn came very close on Pope's Prow and then headed down and Kris and myself worked on Soul Slinger (V9) and Eric and Lynn worked on the Cave Problem (V6) before calling it a day.
Eric on High Plains Drifter:
Me trying Soul Slinger:
Today we headed back up with High Plains Drifter as my primary goal. It felt close enough yesterday that I was completely certain I was going to do the problem today -- never really had that feeling before -- at least not that strong. It took about 5 or 6 tries and a key bit of beta from Kris (who sent it earlier this week) and I did it -- so psyched! I got video of it but will have to wait until I have faster internet before uploading it. Eric is super close on it too and I have no doubt that after a rest day he'll do it. It was very cold up there today and everyone was pretty much ready to go by this point but I made them come spot me on Soul Slinger for a few goes. Unfortunately I tore a hold in my finger on my 2nd go but it did feel a bit better than yesterday. The hole isn't bad so after a rest day tomorrow it should be fine..
Eric on Sucker Punch:
We then headed over to Serengetti (V5) - a classic problem that shut me down and ripped a hole in my finger last year. I did it this time in 2 tries and Eric quickly repeated it as well.
Eric on Serengetti:
We ended the day by working on The Hulk (V6) -- which felt doable if we go back to the Happies -- and by doing a high and committing V1 called Heavenly Path.
On the following day - Christmas - we met up with Kris and Lynn Johnson and Dillon Doyle and headed up to the Buttermilks. The Buttermilks are one of the most scenic bouldering spots in the country if not the world. We warmed up on the Sunshine Boulder and then quickly went up to work on Saigon - a classic V6 I worked on but couldn't do last January. This time was a different story and I did it on my 3rd try. A truly spectacular line. Here's me sticking the crux move:
Kris worked on Saigon Direct (V9) for awhile and he really seems close. It's pretty tall and committing and he was taking some big falls down to the pads:
After this we worked on High Plains Drifter (V7) for a little while and Lynn came very close on Pope's Prow and then headed down and Kris and myself worked on Soul Slinger (V9) and Eric and Lynn worked on the Cave Problem (V6) before calling it a day.
Eric on High Plains Drifter:
Me trying Soul Slinger:
Today we headed back up with High Plains Drifter as my primary goal. It felt close enough yesterday that I was completely certain I was going to do the problem today -- never really had that feeling before -- at least not that strong. It took about 5 or 6 tries and a key bit of beta from Kris (who sent it earlier this week) and I did it -- so psyched! I got video of it but will have to wait until I have faster internet before uploading it. Eric is super close on it too and I have no doubt that after a rest day he'll do it. It was very cold up there today and everyone was pretty much ready to go by this point but I made them come spot me on Soul Slinger for a few goes. Unfortunately I tore a hold in my finger on my 2nd go but it did feel a bit better than yesterday. The hole isn't bad so after a rest day tomorrow it should be fine..
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