I've officially begun projecting Cave Traverse. Headed up there by myself on Wednesday afternoon to start learning the moves and again today with Eric J. to continue working it. On Wednesday I was able to do every move -- in about 8 pieces of course but it was a good start. Went back today and was one dab (more like a step off and back on) from 2 piecing it -- and was able to finish it from the start of Midget Sit Start. I think I've got my beta for the first few moves figured out now -- toe hooks -- just have to do it now.
Also, while I'm on the subject -- big props to Chris Johnson for sending Cave Traverse last weekend... Nice job man!
Sorry for no pictures -- you can see Kelly do this problem 2 posts back, though.
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Sawmill Creek Dome season begins...
I drove up on Friday night with Nic and Eric to Chad's place in Duluth and the four of us headed up to Sawmill on Saturday morning where Jim and Scott joined us for a great bouldering day. The temps aren't perfect yet but they are getting better and the air is getting drier as well. The colors were pretty much at their peak as well -- very pretty. It looks like it will be a good season for a lot of people up there.
We started the day by warming up on the standard warm-up problem - which I learned is called the Luscious Lips Traverse:
and following that with some problems I don't know the names of that are around the corner from Jaws and back behind Juggernaut. There was a nice arete problem and a little roof on the opposite side of the same boulder.
After warming up, I started working Sticky Icky (V7) with Eric. Eric came really close to doing this problem this spring and was ready to do it -- and sure enough he beared down and sent the problem after 3 or 4 tries. I gave it about 10 tries as well and made good progress on it. I had never stuck the first move before but managed to do it nearly every try this time and got the next few moves figured out before my fingers got too sore to do the whole thing. I'm pretty confident I'll do the problem next time I go up there.
Scott then went down and sent Jaws in a few tries to begin what was to be a great day for him. Soon after this, we all headed to work on Counselor Moon - a V7 on the face around the corner to the right of the tall slab. Scott sent this heady problem too and was really psyched - he made it look easy.
During this time, a lot of us were working on a double arete problem that I don't know the name of that was really fun:
The problem has a very short fall and isn't too hard so we weren't using pads on it - and of course I managed to blow off it elbow first into the rock below and bleed a bunch. Got it wrapped up with some paper towels and climbing tape and it was fortunately fine.
We then all went to the Exodus area and Jim went to work on the Left of Exodus project. He was working the stand start and nearly sent it -- got into the top out a few times but didn't quite do it. To the left of this is a problem called Umberger Helper (put up by Joe Umberger I guess?) that is pretty fun that I was able to do.
After this, we headed to My Stereo for a few tries on that and then headed home. Had some car problems so had to borrow jumper cables from some other people but we managed to make it home finally - at 2 am.
Scott, Me, Nic, Chad, Jim, Eric
We started the day by warming up on the standard warm-up problem - which I learned is called the Luscious Lips Traverse:
and following that with some problems I don't know the names of that are around the corner from Jaws and back behind Juggernaut. There was a nice arete problem and a little roof on the opposite side of the same boulder.
After warming up, I started working Sticky Icky (V7) with Eric. Eric came really close to doing this problem this spring and was ready to do it -- and sure enough he beared down and sent the problem after 3 or 4 tries. I gave it about 10 tries as well and made good progress on it. I had never stuck the first move before but managed to do it nearly every try this time and got the next few moves figured out before my fingers got too sore to do the whole thing. I'm pretty confident I'll do the problem next time I go up there.
Scott then went down and sent Jaws in a few tries to begin what was to be a great day for him. Soon after this, we all headed to work on Counselor Moon - a V7 on the face around the corner to the right of the tall slab. Scott sent this heady problem too and was really psyched - he made it look easy.
During this time, a lot of us were working on a double arete problem that I don't know the name of that was really fun:
The problem has a very short fall and isn't too hard so we weren't using pads on it - and of course I managed to blow off it elbow first into the rock below and bleed a bunch. Got it wrapped up with some paper towels and climbing tape and it was fortunately fine.
We then all went to the Exodus area and Jim went to work on the Left of Exodus project. He was working the stand start and nearly sent it -- got into the top out a few times but didn't quite do it. To the left of this is a problem called Umberger Helper (put up by Joe Umberger I guess?) that is pretty fun that I was able to do.
After this, we headed to My Stereo for a few tries on that and then headed home. Had some car problems so had to borrow jumper cables from some other people but we managed to make it home finally - at 2 am.
Scott, Me, Nic, Chad, Jim, Eric
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Taylors Falls Again
Nic, Kelly, and myself headed back to the cave at Taylors Falls today. Our goals being Midget Sit Start (V7) for myself and Cave Traverse (V8 or possibly 9?) for Kelly as we were both really close yesterday. After warming up for a few minutes I gave the Midget a try and sent it right away. Felt good to do -- the moves are fun on this one and this problem I remember looking at years ago when I first started climbing and wondering if I'd ever be able to do it.
Shortly after this, Kelly McBride did the 2nd female ascent of the Cave Traverse and all projects for the day were completed! No video of me doing Midget but I did get Kelly on the Cave Traverse:
Shortly after this, Kelly McBride did the 2nd female ascent of the Cave Traverse and all projects for the day were completed! No video of me doing Midget but I did get Kelly on the Cave Traverse:
Saturday, September 15, 2007
Taylors Falls - Left of Lloyds
Today I headed out to Taylors Falls for some climbing with my friends Nic Oklobzija, Eric Johnson, Kelly McBride, and Chris and Lynn Johnson. We started the day by hiking over to the Wisconsin side and climbing in the cave. My current project is Midget Sit Start - a V7 I think - that climbs up the middle. I got through the crux and was on the easy top-out when I blew the beta and came tumbling off. I ended up not doing it today but I know it should go very soon now. Kelly was working on the Cave Traverse with Eric and she came really close to doing it. Some of us might head back up tomorrow and hopefully we can both finish these projects.
After climbing in the cave for awhile, we headed back to the MN side so Nic could have a go on Left of Lloyds. Left of Lloyds - at V11 - is one of the hardest boulder problems at Taylors Falls if not the hardest. Nic has been working this problem for a long time and he crushed it on his 2nd go of the day. This is only the 5th ascent of this boulder problem -- a true MN testpiece. And the video:
Nice job Nic!
And some pictures from the cave:
After climbing in the cave for awhile, we headed back to the MN side so Nic could have a go on Left of Lloyds. Left of Lloyds - at V11 - is one of the hardest boulder problems at Taylors Falls if not the hardest. Nic has been working this problem for a long time and he crushed it on his 2nd go of the day. This is only the 5th ascent of this boulder problem -- a true MN testpiece. And the video:
Nice job Nic!
And some pictures from the cave:
Monday, September 03, 2007
Lake Jeanette Camping and Cabin Boulder Trip
I spent Labor Day weekend up in the north woods hangin' with some good friends of mine. Eric, Nic, and myself drove up on Thursday to Lake Jeanette and were joined by Chad on Friday night. It was a very nice weekend of relaxing on the lake just hanging out and exploring the area. Spent Thursday through Friday night on an island on Lake Jeanette and then Sunday night at Eric's cabin before heading home today (Monday).
We did have some time for some bouldering.. (WARNING: lots of technical bouldering details to follow..)
On Thursday afternoon Nic, Eric, and myself swung into the cabin boulder for a quick hour-long session. We hadn't been to the boulder in a few months while the temps have been too high so it was good to see it again. It's still amazing. We all warmed up on the 10th Plague. After this Nic did a quick 3rd ascent of Dragon Fruit. This is a problem I hope to do this season sometime -- a technical crimpy problem first done by Jim Merli this spring.
Nic on Dragon Fruit:
After Dragon Fruit, the 3 of us went to work on a new line to the left of it and pretty soon 'Cool Hand Luke' got it's FA from Nic. This is not the prettiest line in the world but it climbs extremely well. The low-start (V5 range) has a technical move into some tic-tac-y crimps and then a high bad foot and a big deadpoint to a small hold before grabbing an undercling gaston w/ your right hand and standing up and stabbing a sidepull before either going right or left to your choice of crimp jugs and then topping out.
Eric working Cool Hand Luke:
Friday was mainly a day of exploration so the three of us went to check out the Pauline-Astrid Boulders that Eric, Jared Waterworth, and myself discovered a year ago and built a trail to last summer. We hung out for a few minutes in a cave area and I got an FA of 'Purple Glider' - a V2 or so problem between rails with a slopey, technical top-out.
Nic doing Purple Glider:
We then went to check out the overhanging wall area that we remembered having lots of potential. It unfortunately endup having pretty poor rock quality and it was getting quite hot and buggy so we left before long without doing any more climbing to speak of.
On Sunday, with Chad having joined us, we returned to the Cabin Boulder for lots more climbing. Quite a day of First Ascents this turned out to be. The first new problem to go up was Pendulum - another V5 or so that Nic did. This problem is right around the corner from 'Kelly Clarkson' and is right in front of the smaller detached boulder. It starts on a sloper and goes up to some crimpers and then a high step up to a 2 finger undercling gaston with your right hand way up high that you have to step up into. After grabbing a pretty terrible rail with your left hand you flip the gaston to an undercling then work your feet up and do a big reach move to an ok hold with your left hand. Then another big move to a vertical slot and another big (and scary) move to a muffin feature at the lip and a pretty easy top-out. This problem is very, very good.. I was very psyched to get the second ascent of this problem. It was named The Pendulum because of the way your body swings back and forth at the top of it.
Eric on Pendulum:
The next new problem was put up by Chad -- his first FA! The line climbs up the bulge feature on the far corner of backside of the boulder. The problem features some fun, thuggy, spread-arm moves on the bottom and then a high, easy-but-hard-enough-to-really-pay-attention top-out above. He named it Watershed b/c the top half of the climb is clearly where all the water drains out when it rains. The rest of us also quickly sent this good problem that's probably about a V2.
Chad topping out Watershed:
The FA:
After this, attention shifted to the lines that climb out of the inside of the split between the two halfs of the boulder. Good work to Eric for doing a lot of work cleaning what became Inside Scoop. Inside Scoop is one of the best V2s I've ever done (The 10th plague or The Angler being the competition) -- perfect crimps, edges and sloper holds with good, fun movement between them all the way to the top. This problem is pretty scary as an uncontrolled fall would lead to an awkward sliding on the boulder behind you for a ways but it's not too bad to spot appropriately.
Eric doing the second ascent:
And video of me doing it. It's more overhanging than it looks like in this video:
After Inside Scoop, Nic worked on another line to the right of it that ended up being very hard and very scary he called Slot Machine. This problem is in the V8 range with very cool movement. I really wish the landing wasn't so insane as this climb is pretty incredible but too scary for me at this point.
We called it a day at about this time but we headed back out Monday morning for a quick session before hitting the road and I was able to get the second ascent of Cool Hand Luke from the low start and Chad got the 3rd ascent of Pendulum - which I believe is his hardest problem to date.
All-in-all a pretty great climbing weekend especially considering it was only a secondary purpose of the trip. It's probably been a long time since MN has gotten this many boulder FAs in one weekend:
Cool Hand Luke V5
Purple Glider V2
Pendulum V5
Watershed V2
Inside Scoop V2
Slot Machine V8
These are all quality boulder problems also. This brings the established number of lines on the Cabin Boulder (aka Camp 40 / Big Swirly Boulder / Johnson and Johnson) up to 10. The two mega-projects remain that will both potentially be double digit problems. There are probably a couple more moderate independent lines to be done as well.
And one more thing -- over the course of the weekend we did stumble on more rock:
We did have some time for some bouldering.. (WARNING: lots of technical bouldering details to follow..)
On Thursday afternoon Nic, Eric, and myself swung into the cabin boulder for a quick hour-long session. We hadn't been to the boulder in a few months while the temps have been too high so it was good to see it again. It's still amazing. We all warmed up on the 10th Plague. After this Nic did a quick 3rd ascent of Dragon Fruit. This is a problem I hope to do this season sometime -- a technical crimpy problem first done by Jim Merli this spring.
Nic on Dragon Fruit:
After Dragon Fruit, the 3 of us went to work on a new line to the left of it and pretty soon 'Cool Hand Luke' got it's FA from Nic. This is not the prettiest line in the world but it climbs extremely well. The low-start (V5 range) has a technical move into some tic-tac-y crimps and then a high bad foot and a big deadpoint to a small hold before grabbing an undercling gaston w/ your right hand and standing up and stabbing a sidepull before either going right or left to your choice of crimp jugs and then topping out.
Eric working Cool Hand Luke:
Friday was mainly a day of exploration so the three of us went to check out the Pauline-Astrid Boulders that Eric, Jared Waterworth, and myself discovered a year ago and built a trail to last summer. We hung out for a few minutes in a cave area and I got an FA of 'Purple Glider' - a V2 or so problem between rails with a slopey, technical top-out.
Nic doing Purple Glider:
We then went to check out the overhanging wall area that we remembered having lots of potential. It unfortunately endup having pretty poor rock quality and it was getting quite hot and buggy so we left before long without doing any more climbing to speak of.
On Sunday, with Chad having joined us, we returned to the Cabin Boulder for lots more climbing. Quite a day of First Ascents this turned out to be. The first new problem to go up was Pendulum - another V5 or so that Nic did. This problem is right around the corner from 'Kelly Clarkson' and is right in front of the smaller detached boulder. It starts on a sloper and goes up to some crimpers and then a high step up to a 2 finger undercling gaston with your right hand way up high that you have to step up into. After grabbing a pretty terrible rail with your left hand you flip the gaston to an undercling then work your feet up and do a big reach move to an ok hold with your left hand. Then another big move to a vertical slot and another big (and scary) move to a muffin feature at the lip and a pretty easy top-out. This problem is very, very good.. I was very psyched to get the second ascent of this problem. It was named The Pendulum because of the way your body swings back and forth at the top of it.
Eric on Pendulum:
The next new problem was put up by Chad -- his first FA! The line climbs up the bulge feature on the far corner of backside of the boulder. The problem features some fun, thuggy, spread-arm moves on the bottom and then a high, easy-but-hard-enough-to-really-pay-attention top-out above. He named it Watershed b/c the top half of the climb is clearly where all the water drains out when it rains. The rest of us also quickly sent this good problem that's probably about a V2.
Chad topping out Watershed:
The FA:
After this, attention shifted to the lines that climb out of the inside of the split between the two halfs of the boulder. Good work to Eric for doing a lot of work cleaning what became Inside Scoop. Inside Scoop is one of the best V2s I've ever done (The 10th plague or The Angler being the competition) -- perfect crimps, edges and sloper holds with good, fun movement between them all the way to the top. This problem is pretty scary as an uncontrolled fall would lead to an awkward sliding on the boulder behind you for a ways but it's not too bad to spot appropriately.
Eric doing the second ascent:
And video of me doing it. It's more overhanging than it looks like in this video:
After Inside Scoop, Nic worked on another line to the right of it that ended up being very hard and very scary he called Slot Machine. This problem is in the V8 range with very cool movement. I really wish the landing wasn't so insane as this climb is pretty incredible but too scary for me at this point.
We called it a day at about this time but we headed back out Monday morning for a quick session before hitting the road and I was able to get the second ascent of Cool Hand Luke from the low start and Chad got the 3rd ascent of Pendulum - which I believe is his hardest problem to date.
All-in-all a pretty great climbing weekend especially considering it was only a secondary purpose of the trip. It's probably been a long time since MN has gotten this many boulder FAs in one weekend:
Cool Hand Luke V5
Purple Glider V2
Pendulum V5
Watershed V2
Inside Scoop V2
Slot Machine V8
These are all quality boulder problems also. This brings the established number of lines on the Cabin Boulder (aka Camp 40 / Big Swirly Boulder / Johnson and Johnson) up to 10. The two mega-projects remain that will both potentially be double digit problems. There are probably a couple more moderate independent lines to be done as well.
And one more thing -- over the course of the weekend we did stumble on more rock:
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