Wednesday, April 09, 2008

Joe's Valley Part 2

Finally getting around to Part 2 of the Joe's trip....

Thursday ended up being a pretty good day for me. We went up to the Garden of Eden area and I checked out Anatomy Act - a V7. The guide isn't very clear as to what the problem is exactly but after talking with some other guys there I finally figured out it climbs up an arete. I almost flashed the thing. I fell off a sloper on the topout that I couldn't quite hang on to right. Fortunately, I did the thing next try which is the fastest I've ever done a V7. It starts on 2 crimps without really any feet to speak of and a pretty big move right to a pocket. Then slap your left hand up on slopers a few times, get your foot up to the start holds, then another pretty big move with your right to a bad sloper. Adjust it and rock up to a nice rail and it's pretty much over.

After Anatomy Act I checked out the other lines in the area and decided to try Arma - another V7. Not the most amazing line but it looked worth doing. I nearly flashed this one too! Falling off the topout again. After jumping onto the topout and doing it, I did it on my next try from the start. It involves 2 crimpy moves to a jug on the topout slab and then a couple of balancey crimpy moves on the slab to get your feet up. A nice little problem.


On Friday, I went back yet again to the Boy Size area but failed yet again on the same move. So it'll have to wait for a future trip. I did try Boy Size Right, however, which starts on the same starting holds and goes right. It ended up being a great problem. One guide calls it a V4 and the other a V6. I was able to do it in 2 tries and was quite happy to do it.

Brea worked more on Peep Show and made great progress. She made the crimpy first moves look easy and she got very close on the higher moves as well. It was cool to see the progress and even though it's too bad she didn't send it -- it's something for her to dream about and it'll be waiting for her next time :)...



We finished the day checking out the Gun Shot boulder and both of us climbed on the easy problems to finish the trip.



We still had some time left in the day so we drove out to the Gulch Overlook in the San Rafael Swell to check out the Little Grand Canyon. I had visited this spot last year and it is still amazing. Huge views of the canyon all to ourselves. A great way to spend the last afternoon of our trip.

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